Discussions about the great white wines of the world tend to revolve around an exclusive list of four very specific varieties Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio (or Gris), and Riesling. Such discussions overlook perhaps the most versatile white variety of all: Chenin Blanc. The golden-hued wines made from this exciting grape can range from rich, sweet late harvest dessert wines to bright, bone dry styles of nervous minerality and taut acidity. Hailing from northern France's Loire Valley, it is now grown around the world, and has found a particular home in South Africa. Ken Forrester, one of South Africa's most prominent winegrowers, brings us this beautiful example, made from his 40-year-old vines in Stellenbosch. Its focused expression of baked golden apples and green melon is enriched by its long, luxurious finish of tart citrus and honeycomb. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, and then the wine is aged on its lees for nine months in oak barrels. About 20% of these barrels are new, resulting in restrained yet unmistakable warm tones of baking spice and vanilla. Forrester's Reserve Chenin Blanc is the perfect marriage of luxury and refreshment, both elegant and crisp, and offers itself as an easy partner with food or a delicious libation. $13.99 Food Pairings : Mashed Sweet Potatoes or Butternut Squash with Browned Butter, Baked Scallops with Pancetta, Roasted Brussel Sprouts with Apples